Chris Goodman
(K=1078) - Comment Date 1/2/2005
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I would suggest either HC-110 or D-76. Both are made from Kodak. D-76 is a powder and HC-110 is a liquid. I personally like liquid developers but they do go bad after a while. By you using traditional emulsion films, these developers were made for thos films. Have fun and experiement.
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Jon O'Brien
(K=11321) - Comment Date 1/2/2005
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I admit to being a very new fish in this ocean myself. They used D76 at the darkroom at school (and Plus X film iirc) and that seemed to be fine. But the techs there did all the mixing. I mixed up my first batch of it a couple of days ago in my brand new home darkroom and swore I'd never use a powder again. The warnings on the labels are not very friendly. The other chemicals I'm uisng are all liquid concentrates (paper developer, stop bath, etc) and seem much easier to work with.
Just my .02. I'd certainly be interested in hearing what the more experienced hands in this forum think of what I just wrote.
Happy New Year to All,
Jon
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Richard Dakin
(K=12915) - Comment Date 1/2/2005
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Thanks Chris, I think I would prefer to go with a liquid such as HC-110 to start. Seems like it would be easier to mix.
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Richard Dakin
(K=12915) - Comment Date 1/2/2005
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Thanks Jon, this exactly the info I need. Your experience with using D-76 is not something I need to experience.
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ann clancy
(K=2014) - Comment Date 1/2/2005
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liquid chemistry is a wonderful addition to the darkroom. when i began, we only had powder chemicals , so i have years of experience mixing packaged chemicals as well as mixing formula from scratch.
Depending on the results you want and need will dicate the form the chemistry takes.
I certainly can understand your frustration with the directions. Stick with what makes you comfortable.
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Scott McFadden
(K=5663) - Comment Date 1/6/2005
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The best advantage powedered chemicals have is cost.
they require more fiddling and so are cheaper.
The directions are very simple and most mixing can be done beforehand in the daylight.
if you can afford the liquid stuff go for it.
Rodinal does a nice job on slower films.
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Giuliano Guarnieri
(K=36622) - Comment Date 1/8/2005
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Hi Richard,
I suggest "one shot" developer so you are more sure that you can replicate the results.
When a developer stay for a long time in a bottle the power is reduced and so you never know if after two day (for example) it's still good or not.
To start I suggest you Rodinal (1+25 or 1+50), HC-110 (usually B solution) and D-76. The first two are already liquid.
Bye and enjoy
Giuliano Guarnieri
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Richard Dakin
(K=12915) - Comment Date 1/9/2005
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Thanks Ann, Scott, and Giuliano for the suggestions. I think I will probably start with HC-110. My darkroom plans are on temporary hold however, as I might need to buy a DSLR for a job I have been offered. I'll need to shoot colour (not my favourite) with a very quick turnaround and digital seems like the right way to go. I still intend to go darkroom eventually, as B+W landscapes are my passion.
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Victoria Smith
(K=15) - Comment Date 1/24/2005
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I usually shoot Kodak T-Max or Tri-X. Starting to explore some more, but that is what I had to use for school. We also use D-76. Only lab assistants make the chemistry, I am one so I can say it is not that hard. We are starting to use HC-110 in my advanced B&W class. I haven't used or made it yet thou. But according to our teacher it is easier only in the fact that the water used to make the chemistry doesn't have to be some ungodly temperture when you make HC-110. I would try both if you are completely new.
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Richard Dakin
(K=12915) - Comment Date 1/24/2005
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Thanks Victoria. I will start with HC-110 and go from there. There are some other films I want to try as well.
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Joćo Silva
(K=32) - Comment Date 1/24/2005
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Hi!
I'm a beginner in b&w darkroom. I started using rodinal to develop Tri-X 400 but I've got too much grain. Recently I buy a bottle of T-Max developer. I haven't try it yet. What about T-max, was it a good choice?
Regards,
Joćo Silva
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Richard Dakin
(K=12915) - Comment Date 1/25/2005
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I am probably not the one to ask since I am a beginner too. Maybe you should post a new question?????
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john sands
(K=100) - Comment Date 1/30/2005
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Nobody has mentioned Kodak X-Tol, very easy to make up using reasonable temperatures & also very cheap to use. Only drawback only available in 5 litre packs.
I develop my Tri-X in it, & it is also very good for Fuji Neopan 1600 uprated to 3200, very little grain. I am currently using Ilford DDX (liquid), 1+4 dilution, but I am not sure if it will still be available due to the sitiation at Ilford.
Regards, John.
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Richard Dakin
(K=12915) - Comment Date 1/31/2005
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J Dillon
(K=1426) - Comment Date 2/3/2005
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Joćo, the tmax developer is only good for t grain films such as tmax and ilford delta. there are a lot of options for tri-x but Kodak D-76 is probably the best starting point until you become a little more advanced. it's a great all around developer that gives fine grain and sharpness and moderate contrast.
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Richard Dakin
(K=12915) - Comment Date 2/4/2005
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Thanks Robbie, that info is good to know for anyone planning on using the T-Max series.
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Chaos 100+
(K=15) - Comment Date 2/11/2005
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For developer, u can try liquid Rodinal (grainy but sharp) or powered D76 (fine grains). What abt stop bath, fixer, HCA and wetting agent, do u know what to use? But for using D76, you must know how to mix it properly.
thks.
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Richard Dakin
(K=12915) - Comment Date 2/11/2005
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Thanks for the info, there is much to consider.
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Tyler Robbins
(K=904) - Comment Date 2/26/2005
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D76, my friend. It is powder yes, but it works on about anything. They key is making absolutely sure your water is pretty hot (what is it, like 120 deg. F?). I suggest mixing it in a large pail (I use a toilet brush to stir). Mix powder into 3 l of water a little at a time (this is if you use a big pouch), and stir it briskly while doing so. It will look like suga water, but keep mixing, it will clear up. Once it was mostlt cleared up, add the rest of your water, stir stir stir.... once your developed looks clear, put it into it's final container, use a funnel with a stainless steel screen in it, it will catch the little residual powder. The other problem with d-76 (as well as dektol) is it has to stay at room temp, or else the chemistry will fall out of solution. but you can remedy that by putting the jug into a bath of hot water and getting up to temp, then just shake it a bit.
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