paul joels
(K=0) - Comment Date 12/14/2004
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Just thought i'd add this: I chose the Jessops kit because it was an easier solution and cheaper...could this explain my problem? In this case what other "kits" or chemicals should i consider - for general C41 processing?
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Phillip Cohen
(K=10561) - Comment Date 12/14/2004
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Paul, your times seem to be ok. How are you agitating your film once it is in the developer? How are you controlling the temperature?
A few things come to mind:
1. Are you using a Jobo or other automated processor with temperature control? If not do you monitor the temperature during the developer step?
2. If you are not using a Jobo, are you floating your tank in a tub of 38 degree water to keep the temp of the tank constant? It will cool rapidly during the development process if not.
3. You should allow your tank to come up to temperature by floating it in a 38 degree bath for about 5 minutes before pouring in the developer.
4. I you are manually agitating the film, give it vigorous agitation for the first 30 seconds after pouring in the developer, then agitate it for 5 seeconds every 30 seconds during the dev. step.
5. To see if it is the developing step and not the Blix step, look at the frame printing, is the orange base clear, can you see the frame numbers and film type clearly. If not then you have a blix problem.
6. If your edges are not clear then you will need to use the blix a little longer. Shake it up prior to use to get some air into it. If it doesen't properly clear the film, you can put it back in and give it more time. I have to do this with the Bessler E-6 kits. It typically takes about twice the recommended time in the bleach.
7. If your film edges are still dark after longer time in the blix, you may have a light leak when loading the film into the tank. Make sure that your baffles are installed correctly. Use a changing bag to load the tank if your have light leaks in your darkroom.
Just a few things to check, hope it is helpful.
Phil
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paul joels
(K=0) - Comment Date 12/15/2004
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Thanks Phil. Some great stuff there. I've been searching the net for a while now, and only you have mentioned that it could be the blix!
I didn't realise that could be the problem for my case - i cannot see the frame numbers at all, at least not until holding the strip up to very bright light. Think I'll try and leave it for longer next time!
I'm agitating the film/solutions by manually inverting the tank and then knocking/tapping it on the base to release any air bubbles. I've been following the instructions that came with the chemicals for this, buthave read elsewhere many combinations - maybe i'll give them a go. How does the agitation effect the process, i mean i know it is needed, but can there be too much agitation? If so what would this cause?
Temperature control is a little something to be desired as yet since i'm in early stages and seeing if this is worth it for me - my solution is to fill a tub with warm water (heated to between 35 and 43 degrees) - the tank is placed in this during the process, so it shouldn't cool too quickly (I check the temp of the tub to ensure it is high enough). I've been heating the tank without solution in the tub for at least five mins to bring it up to temp as well.
I make sure the developer solution is at 38 degrees when used, and then check the temperature at the 3 min 15 sec mark to see if it should need longer. So to that effect i monitor the temp during the developer stage.
I read elsewhere that a possible cause of dense negatives could be due to developing for too long (even at the suggested time of 38 deg and time of 3min 15sec). Do you think I should attempt this?
Thanks again for your help, its much appreciated!
paul
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paul joels
(K=0) - Comment Date 12/15/2004
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Phil, Thanks very much - with your advice I have now developed a good set of negatives that I'm very happy with. Thanks again, much appreciated!
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Phillip Cohen
(K=10561) - Comment Date 12/16/2004
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Paul, what did you finally do to correct your problem? Was it the agitation, or the extra BLIX time?
Phil
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paul joels
(K=0) - Comment Date 12/16/2004
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I read elsewhere by someone using the same kit that they reduced the developing time - so I did that.
From what you said I was able to establish that I had an agitation and blix problem. SO to counteract this I tried what you suggested on both accounts. I think the blix was the bigger problem, and ended up leaving it for almost double (10 mins I think) the recommended time.
Worked a treat!
Just one more question - is it worth having a wetting agent for the last part of the process?
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Patrick Ziegler
(K=21797) - Comment Date 12/16/2004
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Paul; I use Arista C41 which is a developer, blix and stabelizer. I have never had under developed negs.
I would make sure you are not making an error with either tempature or when you mix your chemistry. Also, shoot some film with a differnt camera in case you metering is out of whack. To little agitation could also cause this problem.
I have had good luck with Arista( C41 and E6 ) which I get from Freestyle photo. I buy in gallons and mix 1 quart at a time.
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Phillip Cohen
(K=10561) - Comment Date 12/17/2004
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Paul,
The very last bath you should put the film in after a good wash when it comes out of the BLIX is a stabilizer. You can put some photoflo or other wetting agent in this however I don't think it is really necessary, they typically have some sort of anti spotting agent in it already.
The stabilizer is actually a preservative to keep bacteria from growing on the film and eating the organic dye materials. In the olden days it used to be made with formaldehyde which is now a known carcinogen so it is no longer used. I am not sure what they use now to replace it. When using stabilizer, mix it with distilled water as it will be drying on the film. Take the film off the reels and soak it in a tray or run it through a tank of the stuff for about 30 seconds. Do not pour it through your processor or get it on your reels as it will turn gummy and will not allow your film to spool properly after a while. After it has soaked in the stabilizer for the 30 seconds or so, hang the film up to dry, do not wipe or wash the stabilizer off. It is important that it dries on the film.
Hope this is helpful, sounds like you have it under control now.
Phil
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paul joels
(K=0) - Comment Date 12/23/2004
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I thought i'd show some of my results - I don't have a full darkroom yet and had my negatives scanned - the set that these images came from were very dense, yet when held to light there was a lot of detail present so I didn't bother the fix them again (previously i had tried this on other sets with success tho).
thanks again for helping with my questions! Oh yeah i should mention that these are cross processed negs (XP was the whole reason i got interested in developing cos it was getting too pricey at labs!), and they were taken using a lomo lc-a, on fugi superia 200 film.
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paul joels
(K=0) - Comment Date 12/23/2004
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paul joels
(K=0) - Comment Date 12/23/2004
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paul joels
(K=0) - Comment Date 12/23/2004
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paul joels
(K=0) - Comment Date 12/23/2004
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paul joels
(K=0) - Comment Date 12/23/2004
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i know a lot of people don't like the vignetting effect, or saturated colours like this but i do, and i realise they aren't perfectly composed, but i like these imperfections.
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