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There seems to be so many on the market, I just can't decide what to try. I've only just started printing myself and use IlfoStop, Ilford Rapid Fixer, and Paterson Universal Developer, with some success. I find it really hard to know when the chemicals are spent and have lost rolls of film because of this. I don't want just a list of chemicals people use because I know that's been done before and people get bored with it, but I was wondering if anyone had any general rules of thumb when it comes to selecting, using, and storing chemicals.

Thanks

Lewis

Hi Lewis,

I had similar problems. Though I learned how to use chemicals the approach was always a non scientific one - this is what you need to get, this how you do this and then you do that. I never had any thorough understanding of anything related to chemicals. After a couple of mishaps - negative to thin although proof was correct, negative not sharp enough and such - I actually started to get deeper into the chemistry of films and how to develop them. The question you have is just too complex to answer quickly in a thread like this, but I absolutely recommend you take a look at 'The Film Developing Cookbook' from Steve Anchell and Bill Troop. It talks about solvent and non-solvent developers to get different effects with the film (maximum sharpness, maximum grain, better tonality, higher/lower contrast, better shadow detail for example). It starts as easy as: 'this is what you need to get' and ends at: 'if you want to experiment yourself, these are the chemicals you need to get, mix them this way and here are a bunch of photographers and their used formulas. It talks about all the different processes to develop, which is probably more interesting for large format, but it is valid as well for medium and small format.

Anyway, this book will probably answer most of your questions and give you the tools to understand the newer processes when going to - let's say Ilford or Kodak websites and read their techdocuments on photo chemicals.

What it comes down to is what do you want to achieve with your negative and therefore what developer will be necessary to choose. For example I started doing tests with these film developers: Ilford DD-X, Kodak D-76, Kodak HC110 and Kodak XTOL. I then use Ilfostop, Ilford Rapid Fixer, Zone VI Hypo Clearing Agent and Kodak Photoflo. I try to keep my stock solutions in such small quantities that I use them up within about one to two months. There are little chemicals though like Hypofix with which you can test whether the fix for example is still good or whether you should mix up some new stuff. Developer you should only use one-shot anyway, at least for the negatives.

Jan

Thanks for the suggestions, I'm sure I saw that book you mentioned in my university's library.

As for your comment about using the chemicals up in about one to two months, do you mind if I ask how much use they get in one to two months?

For example, my current stock all mixed at the same time, has been used with two 35mm films, one 120 film, and about 10 prints. I fear it is now exhausted, but could be wrong.

Hi Lewis.

First off, I would recommend using negative developer for films and positive developer for prints, rather than a universal developer for both.

Your choice of negative developer will depend on the effect you want to achieve. I mostly use Ilford's ID-11 as an all-round film developer, but when significant pushing or low grain is needed, Microphen or Perceptol might do a better job. As Jan suggested, read the documentation e.g. on Ilford's website to see which developer is suitable for what. For starters, I think ID-11 or Kodak's D-76 will suit you just fine.

Half a litre of ID-11 stock solution should last you for about 6 rolls of 35mm film. Occassionally I develop a few more than that, without any problems.

As for positive developers, the manufacturer's instructions usually say what paper area can be developed in one litre of their product. This may differ for RC paper and for fibre-based paper. I can't be bothered to count all the prints at different sizes, so I usually mix a fresh solution when getting black tones starts becoming problematic.

I will tell you what I have done to address this. First, developers. Use them "one shot" if you can, preferably mixed from a concentrated stock solution just prior to processing.
Otherwise, follow the manufacturers spec sheet for capacity.
Stop bath is a cheap enough chemical to use once and pour down the drain. It is essentially white vinegar diluted 1:1 with water. I wouldn't think it is an environmental concern.
Fixer can be tested for usability prior to use.
Benchmark the fixer you use for clearing time when new.
Discard the fixer when the clearing time has doubled.
Fix for twice the clearing time.

To determine clearing time, take a film tongue and dip a half cm into the fixer. After 10 seconds or so dip another half cm into the fixer and watch the reaction.
The film is clear when the second bit to be dipped is as clear as the first.

Thanks for the info.

I had no idea there was such a thing as positive and negative developers, so thanks, I'll make sure I use them the right way round!

Concensus seems to be using one-shot for film at least. I can live with dodgy developer on prints since I can see the results, and can always re-print.

I'll have to try that fixer test some time.

a. S.	mike c.	a. S.	Hassan *.	Jan S.	The P.	Sandee C.	David R.

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