Photograph By Barbara Socor
Barbara S.
Photograph By Mary Brown
Mary B.
Photograph By Bruce Morrison
Bruce M.
Photograph By The Pilgrim
The P.
Photograph By Michael Busselle
Michael B.
Photograph By Marcos R Fernandes
Marcos R F.
Photograph By Jan Symank
Jan S.
Photograph By Nelson Moore [Kes] - 
Nelson Moore [Kes] -  .
 
imageopolis Home Sign Up Now! | Log In | Help  

Your photo sharing community!

Your Photo Art Is Not Just A Fleeting Moment In Social Media
imageopolis is dedicated to the art and craft of photography!

Upload
your photos.  Award recipients are chosen daily.


Editors Choice Award  Staff Choice Award  Featured Photo Award   Featured Critique Award  Featured Donor Award  Best in Project Award  Featured Photographer Award  Photojournalism Award

Imageopolis Photo Gallery Store
Click above to buy imageopolis
art for your home or office
.
 
  Find a Photographer. Enter name here.
    
Share On
Follow Us on facebook 

 



  Photography Forum: Darkroom Techniques Forum: 
  Q. Solarization - looking for practical info...

Asked by Timothy Sherburne    (K=599) on 2/17/2003 
Hello all...

I'm looking for practical advice on print solarization. I've read a helpful article on the subject at unblinkingeye.com, but I'd also like to hear from others. What supplies and techniques do you use? Are there other websites or references that cover this subject? I'm on a tight budget, so I can't get too exotic.

Thanks,

Tim


    



 Molly Walters   (K=1284) - Comment Date 2/18/2003
The best teaching tool for learning that technique is really just application, after you have tried it a few times you really get to see what works well for you, when I had a darkroom, and we were doing solorization we just used a standard lamp that we turned on and off very quickly.




Phillip Cohen
 Phillip Cohen  Donor  (K=10561) - Comment Date 3/9/2003
Timothy,

To get consistent results you will need to do some experimentation with developers, paper types, exposure durations, and agitation.

The solariazation I think you are talking about it called the Sabattier effect. It is caused by the build up of waste products along transition areas from light to dark. After partial development the print is re-exposed to the light with the waste products limiting the light that hits the paper in those areas causing a white halo effect. These white areas are called Mackey Lines, (pardon my spelling) In the rest of the print the white areas of the print turn to a grey color or are darkend substantially depending on exposure. This gives you the negative look you are attempting to get.

Some thing I have found over the years is that you develop the print with little or no agitation so that you do not disturb the waste products that are built up on the emulsion.

Next would be to pull the print out of the developer carefully and place it on a sheet of glass or some other flat surface. Place it back under the enlarger (no neg in carrier) at a set enlargement size, in focus, and with a set aperture. It is important to note the height of the enlarger, and make sure that it is in focus so that the light will be consistent on future attempts, as the light intensity hitting the paper will change based on the magnification and bellows extention.

Once the print is back under the enlarger you can then make a stepped test print, exposing it to the white light in increments of your choosing, I use 3 second steps.

After exposure, place the paper back into the developer and process for a set period of time. The key to good prints is to get rid of the variables, so if you develop for a fixed time of say 2 minutes, the only variable would be the exposure time and you will be able to re-create the effect with good results. Look at the test print and find the correct re-exposure time. Then make the final print using the same setup.

There used to be a developer called Solarol that was specifically designed to produce high amounts of waste material thus making the process easier. I am not sure if it is sold any more, but it would be a good choice if you can find it.

Attached is one of my first attempts at solarization made many years ago when I was 14 years old. Sometimes you luck out. I was not as careful then, as you can see the chemical lines and some finger prints etc. But it is a fun process.

Have fun and post some of your results, would be interested in seeing how you did.








 Paul Eggerling-Boeck   (K=503) - Comment Date 4/21/2003
Well I prefer to do the solarizing exposure while the print is in the developer. This is basically out of laziness and interest in moving quickly and not having to try to stop development at a certain point. I use a Vivitar variable-power flash as the light source with the thinking that I can have greater control over the exposure than trying to flick the lights on and off quickly. I haven't done it a whole lot yet, but I've had pretty good results with that process.





 Evan Parker   (K=216) - Comment Date 4/27/2003
Another thing to try is "flashing". The process is the same as solarization (light turned on during development process) but the duration is much shorter. With this procedure, highlights become fogged while leaving the shadows alone, bringing Zone X or IX down a zone or two and giving some texture.

BTW, Solarol is sold by Freestyle (www.freestylephoto.biz)




Log in to post a response to this question

 

 

Return To Photography Forum Index
|  FAQ  |  Terms of Service  |  Donate  |  Site Map  |  Contact Us  |  Advertise  |

Copyright ©2013 Absolute Internet, Inc - All Rights Reserved

Elapsed Time:: 0.125