Nigel Smith
(K=3834) - Comment Date 7/9/2002
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I see people saying they do this, but have minimal personal experience. I hadn't printed any FB for a long time (and can't remember what I did back then which was with graded papers) and tried one recently but the paper wasn't from the same manufacturer (eg Ilford FB and RC) so the fact that the paper speed was entirely different (to my RC paper) was somewhat to be expected. You could probably check the Ilford data sheets to check on their FB and RC paper speeds to check if they are rated the same.
Some other things that will make a difference are the gloss levels of various papers and the paper base colour which will look different. Having said all that, FB paper isn't that much dearer than RC (where I am anyway). If you make one or two small test strips before making a full sized print, you'd need the RC->FB conversion to be repeatable and consistant otherwise you'll end up throwing out full sheets when they don't turn out like you thought and there goes any economy saving!
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Nigel Smith
(K=3834) - Comment Date 7/9/2002
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oops..
"I see people saying they do this, but have minimal personal experience."
should say
"I see people saying they do this, but I have minimal personal experience."
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Chris Todd
(K=60) - Comment Date 7/9/2002
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They are close, but not the same. I use the RC to crudely proof the prints. You still need to use a test strip of fiber paper for the real print, though. Also, be sure to dry the fiber proof. The paper has a slight deepening of the high values when it dries. It is enough to really mess you up if you don't know it, and you won't know until probably the next day. I use an old hair dryer to blow dry the test piece real quick. I just cut strips of paper about 1x5 and use them to see what the exposure looks like, rather than the old uncover-it every two seconds routine. Saves paper. The RC paper does not have as good a white or black as the the other paper. I use both quite extensively.
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Chris Todd
(K=60) - Comment Date 7/9/2002
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Just noticed what else you asked in the question! Yes, you can do RC work prints and then change to the fiber paper. They are close enough for that, just not exactly the same. I think the speed and contrast are very close, just not the final look of the print. If there is a difference between the two speeds or contrasts, it should not be very difficult to find the conversion and just apply it each time.
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Dallas Simpson
(K=269) - Comment Date 7/14/2002
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I'd like to broaden the issue here. For straight B&W printing the differences are there, but small, yet significant. However there are batch variations within RC and FB papers as well as differences betwen RC and FB.
The important thing to understand is that differences in image presentation on printing are not just down to the emulsion, particularly when advanced toning and re-development processes are employed. The FB paper absorbs chemistry and acts as a reservoir during processing. This has profound implications with post printing manipulation and significantly contributes to staining with toning processes. Wash times are greatly increased with FB papers for this reason.
Some advanced redevelopment processes I use rely on the paper absorbtion of chemistry as a reservoir which diffuses into the emulsion during a complex sequences of processing.
Of course there are product differences across manufacturers in this respect, not just RC / FB issues. Different gelatine types, different supercoats on the emulsion and so forth can all affect the final result apart from the silver emulsion type and content.
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