James Bambery
(K=13421) - Comment Date 6/21/2005
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Jesse, try taking your shots early in the morning or late evening and also you could use a circular polarizer to increase the darkness of blue of the sky and practice, practice, practice:)
Jim Bambery
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Don Loseke
(K=32503) - Comment Date 6/22/2005
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Underexposing the film from 1/2 to 1 stop can give you much more saturated skies. Don
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Phillip Cohen
(K=10561) - Comment Date 6/22/2005
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Jessie,
As others have said, get a polarizing filter to darken your sky. With the K1000, you can use a cheaper linear polarizer. Since your camera is not autofocus no need for an expensive circular type.
Also take a look at a neutral density graduated filter. With this filter you can cut the light down in the sky area, while leaving the darker ground area alone and giving proper exposure to both.
Under exposing with slide film as mentioned will give you a nice rich sky but may also make your earthly subjects a bit darker, but experiment to see what works best in that situation. You might try using a UV filter instead of a skylight filter on your lens. It will change the color very slightly.
Phil
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Jesse Brocious
(K=21) - Comment Date 6/22/2005
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i have an array of filters that ive never used...maybe because i was unsure when to use them hahaha... i will try them out and see how it works....only the sky has been getting washed out, the subjects on earth seem to be pretty good
thanks for the help
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Jesse Brocious
(K=21) - Comment Date 6/22/2005
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by the way,does anyone know of a website that shows what the filters mean and do?? i have a Tiffen 80b, tiffen FL-D, promaster spectrum 7 C-P.L, skylight (1A), skylight (1B), Rolev MG Haze
thanks again
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[[dead account]]
(K=6692) - Comment Date 6/22/2005
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You could also bring your images into Photoshop and use the dodging/burning tools to bring those lovely blues to the fore.
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Scott McFadden
(K=5663) - Comment Date 6/24/2005
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jesse the camera u use is quite old and therefor worth checking over with a few test.
first check for mirror alignment (never touch mirror that wrecks it)
using a newspaper focuss on it stop down(try several apetures) and shoot.
check the print(s) for sharpness problems.
check for light leaks in camera by taking some shots with the cap on - prints should come out perfect black.
look into the lenses ur using and ensure they are clean of dirt and funguss check edges more thoughly for peeling of coating and fungus.
finally check the cameras meter against another camera (use same focal length say 50mm) and ensure u use the same asa film whilst checking.
it may be out 1/2 stop diffrent but more than that and your best off adjusting the meter scale and making a mental note that its sensitive is however many stops diffrent.
stops as in aperture clicks to get same reading(no film needed in the meter test)
though it may well be u just need more practise its still good to test your equipment from time to time anyway
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Adam E. J. Squier
(K=9803) - Comment Date 6/26/2005
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With regard to a circular polarizer, it's not whether the camera is auto focus or not. It has to do with the metering. If you use an old Canon FTb, you'll need a circular polarizer. Now, with that being said, most, if not all, AF cameras need a circular polarizer. Conversely, most, but not all (as shown above) MF cameras can get by with a linear polarizer. BUT, it has nothing to do with the AF, it's just that newer cameras have different metering.
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Phillip Cohen
(K=10561) - Comment Date 6/27/2005
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Beg to differ with you Adam, you may be partially right on the required use of a circular polarizer for some of the more modern exposure systems and beam splitting mirrors, but the primary reason was to work with the AF systems in cameras. The AF sensors are either vertical, or horizontal in design, some cameras have both, this is so they can work in both portrait and landscape mode and focus on vertical or horizontal contrast planes, and will become either unreliable or totally unusable with a standard linear polarizer depending upon the angle of the polarizing plate to the angle of focus sensor. This was the reason for their creation. Back when they were created for the early auto focus cameras, there was no such thing as multi-point matrix metering and so on. There was basically a center weighted or spot meter that was still farily broad in it's coverage and was un-effected by the polarized light. Now with hundreds of very tiny light sensors used in modern metering systems they may be more effected by a polarizer so a circular polarizer should be used. But then again all of these cameras are also auto focus so you will be using a circular PL filter anyway.
Phil
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